A new standard in fine dining
Yesterday, we got lunch at Bouley, and it instantly rocketed toward the top of my list of favorite/best restaurants. The food, the decor, the service, and the dining experience were all amazing.
Located in TriBeCa, Bouley is one of a constellation of restaurants started by chef David Bouley. The original Bouley, in operation in the early 1990s, was a fixture at the top of the Zagat rankings and received rave reviews from the New York Times. After closing that restaurant, Mr. Bouley started Bouley Bakery and Danube. After 9/11, he converted Bouley Bakery into the present incarnation of Bouley.
The restaurant is located in an unassuming, low-lying TriBeCa building. But from the moment you open the massive and weathered wood door, you know a unique dining experience awaits. The vestibule is lined with shelves holding fresh apples, giving off a pungent, fruity aroma as you enter.
Leaving the vestibule and entering the restaurant, you are immediately surrounded by class and charm. A maitre d' clad in a designer suit greets guests. We were immediately shown to our table, perfectly set and sized for our party of five (which is impressive, as many restaurants put odd-numbered parties at tables intended for an even number of diners, resulting in crowding or imbalance).
The first thing one notices is the environment. Unlike most restaurants, Bouley has a low ceiling (probably around eight to eight and a half feet). This gives an immediate aura of warmth and intimacy. Rather than feeling intimidated by high, heavy wood panelings (a la Gramercy Tavern) or feeling alone in stark open spaces (66) or even feeling welcomed by high, bright ceilings (as is the case in Union Square Cafe), the restaurant gives the distinct impression of being at home. Granted, it's the home of a rich great aunt who prefers that you keep your voices down and enjoys decorating with velvet and crystal candlesticks. But it's a home none the less.
The decor is gorgeous without being too gaudy (although I'm sure some would disagree). The dining room is lined with velvet couches and long tables, while round and square tables surrounded by plush, round-backed chairs fill the center of the room. Candlesticks adorn the mantle of a marble fireplace. (As an aside, would it be too much work for the staff to ensure the candles are straight, and not hanging jutting out at precarious angles in the holders?) Maroon, white, and cream are the dominant colors. However, there is enough light, both from the large windows and overhead lights, to keep the space from feeling claustrophobic.
The mood of the restaurant is furthered by the menus. Rather than heavy, stuffy black or brown leather menus, or post-modern minimalist menus with the selections glued to a sheet of colored cardboard, the menu jacket is a warm watercolor rendition of the interior of the restaurant.
The staff is exceptionally courteous and respectful. However, they remain friendly. They are certainly not haughty, and seem devoted to making their diners' experience as pleasant as possible. I was particularly pleased with our waiter's response when I told him I was a vegetarian. He instantly assured me that the chef had excellent vegetarian dishes that they would be happy to prepare. Compared with the confusion, indifference, or annoyance provoked by such requests at many other restaurants, this was a welcome change.
Mr. Bouley is known for creating interesting combinations of flavors, and our lunch yesterday certainly did not fail in this regard. We started with a canape of tomato sorbetto and tomato marmalade, topped with Parmesan foam. After a moment for the tastebuds to adjust (it is interesting how the mouth associates certain textures with certain tastes, and when these associations are disrupted, it takes adjustment to accept what one is tasting), it was an interesting treat.
My first course was a grilled eggplant, red pepper, goatcheese terrine. It was excellent. The subtle taste of the eggplant mixed with the spice of the red pepper, and it was complemented well by the tangy goatcheese and parsley seasoning.
The first course was served with two rolls, one sourdough and one a yellow and black raisin roll topped with a baked apple slice. The bread was good -- moist on the inside and crisp on the outside. However, it was not nearly as good as the Gramercy dinner rolls.
The second course was a coconut and garlic soup, finished with chives and basil. It was similar to the taste of coconut curry, with the sweetness of the coconut offsetting the bite of the garlic. The flavors were complementary and unique, but not particularly well-blended. The combination of striking, but at any given time, the mouth was tasting one flavor or the other, rather than a more-interesting combination.
After the second course, a waiter brought the bread cart, which had a selection of fresh-baked breads. I had the black olive bread and the garlic bread (which actually contained chunks of garlic). Other choices included pistachio bread and raisin bread. The bread was ok, but not anything too special.
The main course was pasta, if one defines pasta very loosely. There were beans, sprouts, other fresh vegetables, some sort of baked cracker, and a few pasta noodles. I wish I remembered better what was in the dish. Suffice to say that it was spot-on. It was fresh, unique, and tasted spectacular. The portion was small, but every bite was a treat. It was the highlight of my meal, which is unique to many of the restaurants I have visited this summer, where the appetizer and dessert are usually better than the main course.
For dessert, I got the chocolate souffle, which was incredible. There was some debate about whether it was as good as the souffle that comes with Nobu's Bento Box (I think the souffle at Nobu is better), but this is at least close to that offered by Nobu. It comes with three scoops of ice cream -- vanilla, maple, and chocolate. The maple was excellent, the vanilla was good, but the chocolate did not meet my expectations, as it tasted slightly chalky.
To finish off, the chef sent out strawberry, yogurt, and cream parfaits, which nicely washed down the chocolate we had just consumed.
In short, lunch at Bouley was a tremendous event. The food is top-notch: it is on par with Gramercy Tavern and Craft as far as taste and creativity go. The service is amazing as well -- I would rank it equal to Union Square Cafe and near Gramercy. The environment is also excellent, lending to a comfortable and enjoyable dining experience.
I still think Gramercy is my favorite restaurant in New York, with Bouley a close second. Judging on food alone, Bouley and Craft are probably tied for first, with Gramercy a close second.
Located in TriBeCa, Bouley is one of a constellation of restaurants started by chef David Bouley. The original Bouley, in operation in the early 1990s, was a fixture at the top of the Zagat rankings and received rave reviews from the New York Times. After closing that restaurant, Mr. Bouley started Bouley Bakery and Danube. After 9/11, he converted Bouley Bakery into the present incarnation of Bouley.
The restaurant is located in an unassuming, low-lying TriBeCa building. But from the moment you open the massive and weathered wood door, you know a unique dining experience awaits. The vestibule is lined with shelves holding fresh apples, giving off a pungent, fruity aroma as you enter.
Leaving the vestibule and entering the restaurant, you are immediately surrounded by class and charm. A maitre d' clad in a designer suit greets guests. We were immediately shown to our table, perfectly set and sized for our party of five (which is impressive, as many restaurants put odd-numbered parties at tables intended for an even number of diners, resulting in crowding or imbalance).
The first thing one notices is the environment. Unlike most restaurants, Bouley has a low ceiling (probably around eight to eight and a half feet). This gives an immediate aura of warmth and intimacy. Rather than feeling intimidated by high, heavy wood panelings (a la Gramercy Tavern) or feeling alone in stark open spaces (66) or even feeling welcomed by high, bright ceilings (as is the case in Union Square Cafe), the restaurant gives the distinct impression of being at home. Granted, it's the home of a rich great aunt who prefers that you keep your voices down and enjoys decorating with velvet and crystal candlesticks. But it's a home none the less.
The decor is gorgeous without being too gaudy (although I'm sure some would disagree). The dining room is lined with velvet couches and long tables, while round and square tables surrounded by plush, round-backed chairs fill the center of the room. Candlesticks adorn the mantle of a marble fireplace. (As an aside, would it be too much work for the staff to ensure the candles are straight, and not hanging jutting out at precarious angles in the holders?) Maroon, white, and cream are the dominant colors. However, there is enough light, both from the large windows and overhead lights, to keep the space from feeling claustrophobic.
The mood of the restaurant is furthered by the menus. Rather than heavy, stuffy black or brown leather menus, or post-modern minimalist menus with the selections glued to a sheet of colored cardboard, the menu jacket is a warm watercolor rendition of the interior of the restaurant.
The staff is exceptionally courteous and respectful. However, they remain friendly. They are certainly not haughty, and seem devoted to making their diners' experience as pleasant as possible. I was particularly pleased with our waiter's response when I told him I was a vegetarian. He instantly assured me that the chef had excellent vegetarian dishes that they would be happy to prepare. Compared with the confusion, indifference, or annoyance provoked by such requests at many other restaurants, this was a welcome change.
Mr. Bouley is known for creating interesting combinations of flavors, and our lunch yesterday certainly did not fail in this regard. We started with a canape of tomato sorbetto and tomato marmalade, topped with Parmesan foam. After a moment for the tastebuds to adjust (it is interesting how the mouth associates certain textures with certain tastes, and when these associations are disrupted, it takes adjustment to accept what one is tasting), it was an interesting treat.
My first course was a grilled eggplant, red pepper, goatcheese terrine. It was excellent. The subtle taste of the eggplant mixed with the spice of the red pepper, and it was complemented well by the tangy goatcheese and parsley seasoning.
The first course was served with two rolls, one sourdough and one a yellow and black raisin roll topped with a baked apple slice. The bread was good -- moist on the inside and crisp on the outside. However, it was not nearly as good as the Gramercy dinner rolls.
The second course was a coconut and garlic soup, finished with chives and basil. It was similar to the taste of coconut curry, with the sweetness of the coconut offsetting the bite of the garlic. The flavors were complementary and unique, but not particularly well-blended. The combination of striking, but at any given time, the mouth was tasting one flavor or the other, rather than a more-interesting combination.
After the second course, a waiter brought the bread cart, which had a selection of fresh-baked breads. I had the black olive bread and the garlic bread (which actually contained chunks of garlic). Other choices included pistachio bread and raisin bread. The bread was ok, but not anything too special.
The main course was pasta, if one defines pasta very loosely. There were beans, sprouts, other fresh vegetables, some sort of baked cracker, and a few pasta noodles. I wish I remembered better what was in the dish. Suffice to say that it was spot-on. It was fresh, unique, and tasted spectacular. The portion was small, but every bite was a treat. It was the highlight of my meal, which is unique to many of the restaurants I have visited this summer, where the appetizer and dessert are usually better than the main course.
For dessert, I got the chocolate souffle, which was incredible. There was some debate about whether it was as good as the souffle that comes with Nobu's Bento Box (I think the souffle at Nobu is better), but this is at least close to that offered by Nobu. It comes with three scoops of ice cream -- vanilla, maple, and chocolate. The maple was excellent, the vanilla was good, but the chocolate did not meet my expectations, as it tasted slightly chalky.
To finish off, the chef sent out strawberry, yogurt, and cream parfaits, which nicely washed down the chocolate we had just consumed.
In short, lunch at Bouley was a tremendous event. The food is top-notch: it is on par with Gramercy Tavern and Craft as far as taste and creativity go. The service is amazing as well -- I would rank it equal to Union Square Cafe and near Gramercy. The environment is also excellent, lending to a comfortable and enjoyable dining experience.
I still think Gramercy is my favorite restaurant in New York, with Bouley a close second. Judging on food alone, Bouley and Craft are probably tied for first, with Gramercy a close second.
posted by N at 5:14 PM
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